Custom-Made Attire

When buying custom-made clothing, the tailor will do most of the work for you and your options for cut and material are limitless.  

But know this: The pattern you choose will affect your collar and cuff choices (and vice versa).  A formal shirt style with too casual a pattern or fabric will not work well.  Be sure that the shirt is complementary to the custom-made attire.  Nonetheless, the beauty of purchasing bespoke is that counsel comes with the service.

When in doubt, your tailor should be your go-to guy!

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Beards, Moustaches, and Side Burns

Whatever facial hair you grow, the golden rule is to keep it groomed.  Wild and straggly hair, which spells unkempt to the observer, has no place in a gentleman’s appearance. 

A beard may be closely trimmed, Vandyke-style or worn as a goatee.  Nonetheless, it should always be neat and trimmed either by yourself, with the aid of a beard trimmer, or by your Charles Blades Barber Spa barber.  :-)  

The moustache is very much a victim of the whims of fashion.  The pencil-thin moustache of the 1930s or the heavy cowboy-styled moustache of the 70s are two examples of how fashion eras can affect facial hair.  However, the silver screen style is certainly a classic and vintage option.  Though this immaculately groomed variation of facial hair references the past, it is timeless and less likely to be the victim of a sudden change in current style.  Other moustache shapes from Hollywood include waxed and curled moustaches, in the manner of Agatha Christie’s detective, Hercule Poirot, or with a goatee beard like that of Cardinal Richelieu.  A gentleman adopting any of these variations is making a strong style statement.

This  fashion statement also applies to sideburns.

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Facial Hair

When you meet someone for the first time, your face gives the person a strong impression of how you present yourself.  Nature has given men facial hair that varies in color, density, and growth rate.  You have to decide how you wish to frame or decorate your face with facial hair. 

There are a few rules that should be considered when dealing with this area of grooming:

1. Keep all facial hair spotlessly clean and void of dryness and flaking.  Regular washing and moisturizing of the hair and underlying skin is generally all that is required.  However, if these conditions are severe, there are specialized preparations that are available for treatment.

2. Facial stubble is not always rough and sexy.  It can be aging and rather grubby-looking as well.  Check which effect your stubble produces before venturing out and make certain that the facial hair is flattering.

The decision to either have hair or go bare is a personal choice.  Since facial hair makes a statement about you, make certain that what the hair is saying is the message you want to convey about yourself and your style: DO NOT misrepresent yourself!  No matter which route you choose, staying groomed is the most important factor. 

Remember, you don’t have to be in a magazine spread to keep it gentleman-like!

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Did You Know?

Jewelry shops and vintage shops have some great buttons for purchase.  Replacing the existing buttons on your jacket is a simple task, which allows you to achieve a personalized look. 

The tools you will need to change your buttons are:

  • New buttons
  • Sewing Needle
  • Thread (in a color that complements the jacket and the new buttons)
  • Stitch remover
  • Thimble (so that you do not prick your thumb or index finger)

Once you have all your instruments, you are ready to give your jacket a facelift!

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Single-Breasted vs.Double-Breasted

The single-breasted suit should be your default choice for both work and play.  The double-breasted version is a dashing, continental choice that is chic.  The additional fabric of the double-breasted suit adds to a man’s midsection.  Therefore, men who are heavyweight or shorter in stature, should not wear double-breasted suits.

Additonal tip: Always keep a breasted suit buttoned!

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Don’ts of the Month

  1. Don’t flip up your collar when indoors: Hey James Dean, put your collar down.  There is nothing wrong with using your sport jacket like an outer coat. If the weather is chilly, close the lapels over each other and enjoy the extra warmth.  Once you get inside, put the collar down.
  2. Don’t wear a leather blazer: Unless you are on your way to make a collection for La Famiglia, stay away from leather.

 

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How To Pull Off the Khaki Suit

While this perfect summer suit does not need to be kept in the closet after dark, you need to accessorize correctly to make the khaki suit as versatile as a dark one.

Beginner: Khaki suits are made for daytime events with relaxed dress codes.  Reinforce the informal aesthetic with a chambray shirt, a thin sweater vest, and tan leather shoes or spotless white sneakers.

Intermediate: Sand-colored cotton’s preppy roots make it a perfect backdrop for bright colors.  Pair a khaki suit with a green and white striped tie, a collared shirt, or a polo in a sherbet hue like tangerine or raspberry.  Avoid overkill by steering clear of whale pants and sailboat motifs.

Advanced: A khaki suit can look just as elegant as a tuxedo.  The trick is to skip the bright colors and stick to an otherwise black and white palette: a crisp white shirt, a black tie adorned with a silver tie bar, and a white pocket square.

 

 

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The Perfect Suit

A cheap suit is as easy to spot in a crowd as a bad toupee.  As a rule, it is far better to have two great suits, than to own five mediocre ones.  Start with a rich midnight blue, a few shades darker than the average navy.  This suit will transition beautifully from day to night, and can be worn with both black and dark-brown shoes.  This suit’s hue goes well with just about everything.  In fact, you would have to try extremely hard to find a shirt-and-tie-combo that clashes with the right dark-blue suit.  Choose a solid blue or try a subtle pattern — herringbone, windowpane, or the classic pinstripe.  No other suit will give you as much mileage. 

Remember, quality over quantity!

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City Casual Looks

The impact of fabric and color combinations in putting outfits together may be explored in casual urban attire. 

  • Spring example: a cool blue cotton shirt, a dark navy V-neck sweater, a navy pinstriped suit jacket, and a pair of dark indigo jeans.  This look can be accessorized with a purple and lilac striped cotton knit scarf, black polished boots, and a blue and gray nylon messenger bag. 

 

  • Autumn version: a pale lilac shirt, a dark purple V-neck sweater, a rich brown corduroy coat, and a park of dark indigo jeans.  The addition would be a purple, brown, and lilac mohair scarf, dark brown boots, and a textured brown leather messenger bag. 

In both examples, note the texture and color combinations and how the same colors in differing shades hold the outfit together.

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Nail Health

The health of a man can often can be diagnosed by the health of his nails.  Poor nail condition may be attributed to diet or a medical condition.  If you have a splitting nails, heavily ridged nails, or some other problem with your nails, it is important that you do not ignore the issues.  It is best to deal with the problem immediately — Consult your physician!

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